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COLOURS USED shown in dark blue
#1 - Alizarin Crimson 
#2 - French Ultramarine
#3 - Winsor Blue
#4 - CeruleanBlue
#5 - Raw Sienna
#6 - Light Red
#7 - Burnt Umber
#8 - Naples Yellow
#9 - Winsor Yellow
#10 - Neutral Tint

[OB] - Orange Brown = #6+ #5+ sm#2 (med strength)
[RG] - Rich Green = #9+ #4 (medium strength)
[YB] - Yellow Brown = #9 + #7 (medium strength)


cw refers to the term "charge with" meaning to introduce a colour into a still wet colour.(Wet-in-wet)
sm refers to the term "smallest amount"

[ class projects ] [ the drawing ] [ 1st stage ] [ 2nd stage ] [ 3rd stage ] [ 4th stage ]
masking fluid 1  ] [   masking fluid 2  ]
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Daisies in Long Grass


Standard Notes:
Planning the painting: This is very important!
First read through all the notes - mentally paint the picture before proceeding - analyse the source picture above - and PLEASE be aware of the colour mixes you are about to apply to each area, and the order in which they are applied, try visualising the result. Will the brush you are about to use carry enough colour - have you mixed enough colour - is the mix too strong or too weak? Try it out on your - trial pad!

Application of washes.
This should be quick using as few strokes as possible to cover any area being worked on. A minimal amount of brush-strokes equals greater purity and translucency of colour. Too much dabbing and scrubbing when applying the colour kills its freshness.

Basic Mixing Method.
More water in the wash gives a pale or weak wash, more colour produces a stronger wash. Most mixes require only two colours, one will be darker than the other. Mix sufficient quantity of the lighter colour and just keep adding small quantities of the darker colour until you feel happy with it, keep checking your progress on your trial pad.

1 The Masking Fluid Application notes:
I believe that most pictures do not need masking fluid to create the white or lighter/pale areas, such as the previous project picture we painted of swans. The shapes were large and
not too difficult to paint around.
This picture of daisies and long grass is ideal to show the qualities and usefulness of masking fluid.
There are several makes of Masking Fluid and different colours, most seem to be a creamy yellow, I use a make called Pébéo it dries to a dark grey and has a thin consistency, which I prefer.
Use a brush that is past its best and won't cause you grief if it's ruined. However to help preserve the integrity of your brush squeeze a few drops of washing up liquid (Fairy Liquid is great) onto your palette and use your selected brush as though you're mixing colour working the liqiud in the roots of the brush, wipe all the excess off your brush with a dry towel, there only needs to be a miniscule layer of soap liquid in the hairs/filaments for this to work satisfactorily, if there is too much you will get bubbles in your masking fluid and spoil it
Start at the top of your picture and fill in the daisies working your way down to the bottom of the sheet. Study the large picture as a guide.
Apply an adequate amount of fluid, too little and too sparse an application is often difficult to remove.
Leave to dry completely at least an hour .

2 The Background colours:
Mix sufficient quantities of each [OB] [RG] and [YB] of the three basic colour mixes.
Positive strokes applied quickly without fussing at a slight angle to the horizontal, first the orange brown, then the rich green and the yellow brown.
Keep your brush loaded and as you proceed down the sheet change from one colour to another until you have completely covered the paper allow to thoroughly dry.

Now for the second application of Masking Fluid. .




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